Italy is a wonderful solo travel destination for women over 50: food, safety, warmth, and enough art and history to fill several bucket lists. I’ve been visiting Italy since I was a child and even went to high school in Turin for a year – I’m always excited to return!
Who hasn’t dreamed of throwing coins into the Trevi Fountain in Rome or gazing at Michelangelo’s David in Florence?
Italy may be one of the world’s quintessential romantic destinations, but solo travel to Italy is just as much fun.
From small islands to big cities and from the Italian Riviera to the vineyards of Tuscany or Vatican City, Italy is an outstanding solo travel destination. Here’s why.
Is Italy a good fit for solo female travelers over 50?
I’ve visited Italy alone enough times to lose count, as a young woman, and more recently, into my ‘ties. As far as I’m concerned, solo travel Italy rocks!
- It has plenty of art, culture and history, including more than 50 UNESCO World Heritage Sites. There’s so much to see!
- My favorite pastime: sitting on a piazza, sipping a coffee, watching the world go by. There may be plenty to do in Italy, but the downtime is fun too.
- It’s easy to get around. The city transportation systems are straightforward, as is travel between cities. If you plan on visiting a number of cities, consider getting an Italy Railpass.
- The food, oh, the food! As a traveler, you’ll be able to sample Italian cuisine from several regions.
- Shopping in Italy has no equal, even if, like me, you don’t like shopping. After visiting Italy, you will.
- There’s a certain joie de vivre in Italy, a joy and energy and brightness that will keep your spirits up. Even the colors smile!
- Italy is quite safe, but more about that in a minute.
- Italy is such a popular destination that even though most Italians don’t speak English, you’ll get by just fine.
Attitudes towards women in Italy
Gender equality is entrenched in the law and discrimination is illegal, as is any kind of violence against women. This doesn’t mean it doesn’t happen, but serious assaults aren’t common.
Low-level harassment does take place – the whistles, comments, or sounds made when an attractive woman walks by. Yes, there are occasional reports of bums being pinched and lecherous men trying their luck with foreign women or worse. Happily, these are very much the exception.
Regional differences can also be marked – in more affluent Northern Italy, things are more businesslike and men and women interact as they would in much of Europe.
Southern Italy is much more conservative, and many women hold traditional roles in the home.
When it comes to solo female travel in Europe, Italy is relatively typical.
This makes solo female travel, Italy – a perfectly good idea!
How safe is Italy?
Let’s face it, petty crime is plentiful – my car has been broken into every time I’ve been to Italy (once when parked right in front of a police station). And I know several people who have lost their handbags and wallets to thieves.
So is Italy safe to travel alone as a woman?
Actually, yes, pretty much.
Italy has a low crime rate compared with many other European countries. In 2022, Italy had half the homicide rate of countries like Sweden, Finland or France. Petty crime, yes, plenty. Violent crime, not often.
To avoid any unpleasantness, here are a few safety tips to help you enjoy this great destination.
- Watch your handbag. Snatch and run artists are known to ride by on their ‘motorini’ – scooters – grab your purse and scoot away faster than you can yell thief! The same goes for travel handbags on the bus or even in posh neighborhoods, where the mother of a friend of mine had her purse grabbed by a man on a scooter and fell as a result.
- Use an anti-theft handbag. Your best bet is to use one of these crossbody anti-theft bags, which don’t really lend themselves to snatching and are too tough to be cut. These are especially useful in crowded places.
- Stay aware. Watch out for groups of street beggars, especially children who look poor and unkempt. Often, this is a scam.
I’ve traveled in Italy on my own at least a dozen times and while there are many tours of Italy available – great if you’re in a rush – it’s an ideal country to visit independently, taking your time.
A bit about Italian culture and life
Italy is about style, more about form than substance (not to say there isn’t substance – it’s just all dressed up in the latest fashion).
The saying “you can’t judge a book by its cover” simply doesn’t apply in Italy because here, you can, and you most certainly will be judged by your cover. How you dress and behave are all indicators of your background, class, and education, and you’ll be treated accordingly.
Here’s the tiniest glimpse of the famous world designers who happen to be from Italy: Armani, Cavalli, Dolce & Gabbana, Ferragamo, Fendi, Gucci, Missoni, Prada, Versace… and that’s just in fashion.
For automobile, design thinks Ferrari, Lamborghini, Maserati, and Alfa Romeo – and to this mix, you can add Bulgari (jewelry), Bialetti (industrial design – you know, the little stovetop espresso machine?), and Sottsass (furniture).
Multiply by ten and you’re starting to scratch the surface of Italian style. And this is part of why appearances are so important.
The moment you meet an Italian, you’ll get the once-over, partly because they’re trying to see where you ‘fit in’ in their world. Your clothes matter, as do your posture, travel accessories, makeup, and table manners.
They’re seeing if you cut a Bella figura – a beautiful appearance, or look, that is so Italian.
Italians are warm and friendly, with hugs, kisses, and arms flying in all directions and constant invasion of your private space. If this irritates you, beware – Italians aren’t going to change anytime soon. Normally, when you meet for the first time a handshake will be enough. Say ciao (pronounced chow) when you arrive or leave and you can’t go wrong.
One thing that stands out about Italy – and several other European countries – is the general courtesy with which people treat one another. Elders are respected, children help where they can, and – you may not embrace this as a good habit – men open doors for women. Also, women often concede opinions and desires if they are contrary to those voiced by accompanying males… although this is changing.
This is quite subtle and sometimes you won’t catch it but there is still an ingrained belief that men are somehow superior or more knowledgeable than women.
And I’ll leave it at that: just something to be aware of when it comes to solo travel in Italy.
And finally, art.
Italian artists like Leonardo da Vinci have dominated the European art scene for hundreds of years. While Florence is the place to go for Renaissance art, you can find breathtaking examples of Baroque, Byzantine, and Rococo styles in other parts of the country too.
Assisi: Unexpected colors in the rain
Assisi has always been in fashion, but as a place of pilgrimage, you might expect it to be, well, sober in appearance.
Instead, I found the colors of Assisi vibrant, almost exploding as the rain fell and continued to cling.
It was wet and thundery, with that special light unstable weather brought with it.
Assisi is best known as the birthplace of Giovanni Francesco di Bernardone, the future St Francis of Assisi, who was born into a wealthy family in 1182 but, after a spiritual awakening, left it all for a lifetime of poverty. He was believed to communicate with animals and felt deeply about the natural world around him.
Earlier in life, he was a poor student, a womanizer, a soldier, and a former prisoner of war, when he fell quite ill with tuberculosis and malaria.
There are even stories he was in love – with Clare, who would join him in poverty and go on to found the women’s monastic order called the Poor Clares. That, however, was nearly a thousand years ago, and the truth today is a bit hazy.
St Francis died young by modern standards, at 45, his body a mass of illness.
Assisi is a place of pilgrimage, and the sight of monks and pilgrims strolling through the steep streets contrasts with casually dressed day trippers.
The town’s centerpiece is the Basilica, a slightly daunting visit when you consider the building was hit by a major earthquake and severely damaged in 1997. The vault collapsed, frescoes were destroyed, and several people died, a grim memory in this otherwise peaceful place.
While the hilltop is where everyone rushes, there’s an unusual church on the plain at the bottom of town. The imposing Santa Maria Degli Angeli was built to protect a tiny chapel called the Porziuncola, which was in disrepair until St Francis renovated it. The Porziuncola is where he made his vow of poverty, and it is the Franciscans’ most sacred site.
Back on the hillside, I return to Assisi. The rain-washed pavements smell clean and metallic, and a breeze pushes its way up the narrow streets. The cobblestones are shiny, and umbrellas are out, but that can’t dampen the colors, which seem even more vivid after they’ve been scrubbed by the weather.
There’s something about the atmosphere here that keeps people – including me – coming back.
Things to see and do in Italy
Since ancient times, Italy has been a popular travel destination, reaching its zenith during the Grand Tour era of the 17th and 18th centuries.
As a result, it has had plenty of time to put its house in order when it comes to its infrastructure for tourists – making Italy solo female travel smooth and simple.
Most visitors will land in the capital – Rome is a great place to start your visit. If you’re interested in Antiquity, the historic center is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and you’ll have plenty of vestiges to visit, like the Colosseum, the Roman Forum and many more.
You’ll also want to visit the Vatican.
While it is technically a separate country, no trip to Rome would be complete without a visit to St. Peter’s Basilica, the Sistine Chapel, and the rest of the Vatican Museums. Here are short tours that will help you see the Vatican at its best.
Of course there are plenty of cities and villages that could keep you busy for an entire year, places like Florence, with all its art, and Milan, so influential in fashion, and the ever glorious Venice. I can’t begin to list them all – you’ll have to sit with a good guidebook and drool.
Porto Antico, Genoa
Genoa is hemmed in by the sea on one side and mountains on the other, with the city proper crawling up the hillside. It can be hellish to get around up there as avenues run into streets and streets tumble over one another into dead ends, tunnels or steps or inclines. A horrible bridge collapse in August 2018 killed more than 40 people, adding to the chaos and concern.
Whenever you’re lost in Genoa, head downhill towards the water. You might end up at Porto Antico, the OId Port.
From above, Genoa’s history as a port city is evident, old enough to date back to the Etruscans more than 2500 years ago. At war during most of its history, the city found some semblance of stability around the 16th century, when it began attracting wealth and artists – but then half its inhabitants were killed by the plague. The city continued its erratic trajectory but today it is one of Italy’s economic engines, its shipbuilding and high-tech industries performing well and helping support a country often in crisis.
I still don’t know what to make of the Old Port of Genoa. The seashore was thoroughly restored a few years ago, both for the 500th anniversary of the ‘discovery of America by Christopher Columbus’ (Columbus was born in what was then the Republic of Genoa) and because it was named the European City of Culture in 2004.
By the water, there’s a modern aquarium, a scrumptious Eataly, and restored buildings… but inside the old quarter, the brush-up is far less visible.
For a bird’s eye view of it all, take Il Bigo, the elevator crane.
Across the street from the port, in the old quarter, things probably haven’t changed in centuries. Part of me dislikes the seediness and the dark alleys, and the underlying sense of unease they create.
Another part of me likes the city for precisely the same reasons, with curves and corners far more authentic than the massively modern port development.
At night, a slight breeze lightens the air and brings out the cooking smells, mixing them with salt, fish, and diesel. The busy horns echo across the bay, competing with the soft sounds of wavelets against moorings and cables clinking along ships’ masts. If you ignore the gentrification, the slight disrepute and edginess of the Porto Antico give Genoa considerable charm and energy, raising it high on my list of ‘must-visits’ when in Italy.
A few off-the-beaten-track Italian sights
You could spend a year in Italy and only scratch the surface. Just remember there’s more to Italy than Rome-Milan-Florence-Venice.
Some of the best places in Italy for solo travelers aren’t necessarily the most visited; for example, Sardinia, a part of Italy few foreigners ever reach, not to mention the many other beautiful islands of Italy.
Here are some examples of less visited sights:
- The Basilica di San Clemente in Rome is actually three churches built on top of each other. The top one was built around 1100AD, and below that is its 4th-century predecessor as well as an ancient Roman house that served as a place of both pagan and Christian worship.
- Lying below ground underneath the notorious Sanità neighborhood of Naples are the Catacombs of San Gennaro in Naples, which date as far back as the 3rd century BC.
- Cefalù, Sicily is a laid back coastal town near Palermo that is dominated by its Norman Cathedral, built in the 12th century and filled with glittering Byzantine mosaics.
Go off the beaten path! Even a day trip from Rome will do plenty to change your environment.
Once in a lifetime experiences
Some experiences are more memorable than others, and you’ll remember them long after you’ve gone home.
- If you love art, go on an Art tour in Florence.
- You should do it at least once – a gondola ride in Venice. Try teaming up with another solo traveler to keep costs down.
- If you’re really daring, consider a Vespa tour in Rome and pretend you’re Audrey Hepburn for a day. You may have to intermittently close your eyes as you come into very close contact with other vehicles – but it’s still worth it and very fun.
Foods you must try
Gelato. The best ice cream in the world, bar none.
Pizza. Especially if you’re in Naples! Stick with the traditional options, either pizza Margherita or pizza marinara. Some places serve only these two types anyway.
Pasta. Italy has hundreds of different pasta shapes and sauces, and each town has its own local specialties.
Another wonderful way to come into contact with Italian food is by visiting some of the many markets you’ll find across the country.
Or, you could stay on a farm for a weekend – agriturismo is a fun Italian experience that brings you close to both the land and its culture. Or why not a wine tasting tour?
In Italy, food seems to lie at the center of everything. Some of the best cooking vacations you’ll experience are bound to be in Italy. I tried a cooking course in Tuscany, and it’s something I absolutely loved.
So much in Italy revolves around food that learning to prepare it almost seems like a rite of passage. If you can’t take a culinary vacation, at least, take a food tour – Italy is absolutely full of them.
Italy travel tips for the solo 50+ traveler
By and large, the same travel tips will apply to all ages: pack lightly, be aware of your surroundings, don’t overload your schedule, wear good walking shoes.
But here are a few extra tips worth considering:
- Consider building your trip around a specific theme or interest. For example, if your family is from Italy, you might want to indulge in some heritage travel. If you’re an artist, you can structure your trip around art, or if you’re mad about history (especially Antiquity), you could see only Roman ruins for your entire trip. If you happen to be a writer like me, why not follow in the footsteps of Shakespeare’s plays, as itemized in the book: The Shakespeare Guide to Italy? Or have a cooking holiday, or check out the best foodie cities, or follow pilgrimage routes. When it comes to Italy, the list is endless.
- Your hotel: if it’s in an old part of town, you might have to lug your bags quite some distance over cobblestones to get there – not all city cores allow cars. Also, if you choose a “quaint” or traditional hotel, it might not have an elevator or air conditioning.
- Note that mealtimes in Italy might be different than what you’re used to. Lunch starts around 12:30 and restaurants usually close at 2:30 for the afternoon. They reopen around 7:30. So if you’re hungry in the afternoon… head for gelato!
- Beware the pickpockets. I know I’ve mentioned it, but – just to be sure.
- And get insurance before you leave.
And please – don’t forget your travel insurance before you go! Two outstanding insurers are for travelers are Visitors’ Coverage and SafetyWing – whoever you choose, make sure you get insurance for any trip abroad.
Planning your trip to Italy
Even if this is your first solo trip, you should be able to navigate Italy without problems, especially if you’ve traveled internationally before.
But if this is your first trip to a foreign country and you’re not 100% ready for such a solo adventure, I might suggest first going to a country where the culture is more familiar and where you speak the language.
Best time to visit Italy
The best time to visit for solo travel to Italy is – almost all the time, depending on where you go. I dislike summer high season because it’s impossibly crowded and, in many places, unbearably hot (and not everyone appreciates catering to a solo woman when they can fill a table with a family).
If you’re headed for a specific event, the Biennale or Carnevale, then you know when to go. But if you’re taking your time – and when it comes to slow travel Italy reigns – then you’ll have more choices.
I personally love the shoulder seasons, the April-May (when fruits and vegetables are in their prime) and the September-October periods (think grape harvest), when the weather is wonderful, the crowds are gone, but the country still feels festive.
What to buy in Italy: Shopping
The problem with Italy is the overwhelming urge to spend money that hits you the moment you step off the plane. Even if you don’t like to shop (take my word for this).
How can you avoid it, surrounded as you are by name brands, outstanding workmanship, and extraordinary design, not to mention delectable foods and wines?
I do my best to avoid shopping but… oh, the shoes and the bags. I have never succeeded in leaving Italy without at least one new bag. However, I never buy shoes because the sizing is all wrong for my feet – few half-sizes and no width variety (Italian women must all have perfect, narrow feet). Bags and purses, on the other hand, fit everyone.
You can buy in the major designer stores, of course, but I’ve always found it worthwhile to head to one of the two dozen outlet malls in Italy. If you happen to be in the North, head to the Serravalle Outlet, Italy’s largest, less than an hour from Milan. You can either ride the shuttle, or go for a semi-private VIP transfer.
You can also shop in original boutiques and markets, where you can bargain and where the choice is so overwhelming you may leave empty-handed because you can’t cope.
That said, if you’re not buying from major outlets, look at your items carefully before you buy and make sure you really are getting the quality you think you are. Substitutions have been known to happen.
In areas frequented by tourists, it’s very common for street vendors to sell knock-off designer bags. If police come by, the vendors will scoop up their wares and run off before you can blink. If you happen to be in the middle of a transaction and haven’t yet received your change or the item you were purchasing, you’re out of luck!
Italy is no different from other countries. If that Gucci bag costs $100, it isn’t a Gucci.
Be aware that customs officers are highly trained to detect fakes, however good. If you buy something and try to carry it into France or Switzerland, for example, you might be facing a hefty fine, possibly into the thousands. Not worth it!
How to get around in Italy
There are so many places to visit in Italy that it’s hard to generalize.
Still, it is by and large a safe country and its cities are safe as well, made for walking, and full of bustle until later than we’d be accustomed to in northern Europe or North America. Italians often have a passeggiata, a stroll in the evenings, and it’s wonderful to watch piazzas come alive with several generations arm in arm.
Traveling Italy alone tends to be relatively straightforward and not too expensive. If you can figure out the various transport systems – and people are usually willing to help – then do yourself a favor and leave city driving for the daredevil brigade, unless you like the stress of avoiding manic drivers and pedestrians at high speeds on narrow, crowded downtown streets. Parking, too, is for the brave but if you want an experience to talk about back home, then, by all means, rent a car in Italy.
But don’t say I didn’t warn you.
On highways, two lanes may mean three to Italians, with a car trying to squeeze in down the middle or on one side. Getting off an “autostrada” highway is an art – figuring out how to pay requires a university degree…
That said, I do rent a car is for drives into the countryside, where you actually need one. I usually rent a car from Fiumicino airport as soon as I fly in, to avoid the city altogether – I did it recently, and it was seamless. Once out of the city, especially on country roads, driving is far more relaxed.
Public transport in Italy is inexpensive. You can buy public transport passes in major cities like Rome, Milan, and Florence, and they often include entrance to attractions. One thing to remember is that in Italy, trains may often be late but they do go everywhere.
Your major cost is likely to be accommodation. Make sure you use reliable platforms like booking.com for hotel bookings (because they have generous cancellation policies) or VRBO for apartments.
Readers’ recommendations
- When in Venice… “I love books and in Venice, I discovered a bookshop unlike any other: Libreria Acqua Alta. You can find books not only on shelves, but also arranged in gondolas. The idea was to protect the books from rising water, hence the name: Acqua Alta, which means high water. The books are in Italian, so although I was tempted by some graphic novels, I didn’t buy any. But it was worth visiting, not just for the bookshop itself, but because it is off the beaten track, you get to shake off the tourists and get to the real Venice, where people actually live.” —Suroor Alikhan, Geneva, Switzerland
- When in Genoa… “Trattoria Ugo, Via dei Giustiniani, 86r, 16123 Genova is often cited as the best place to taste authentic Genoese pesto, and the food is outstanding. Traditional, unpretentious, well-priced and friendly, and you can even buy jars of the sauce to take home.” —Anna Hartley, Paris
Before you go…
Italy is one of those countries which you’ll never fully explore. It may not be huge, but it has so much diversity that you’ll get waylaid as you try to explore every nook and cranny.
Just remember to take your time. Since you’ll never see it all, you might as well take your time. And if you’re not sure where to start with your planning, start here, with these travel planning tips for women over 50.
～ This article includes earlier contributions by Wendy Werneth of The Nomadic Vegan