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14 June 2018—Imagine someone giving up their subway seat so two friends can sit together. Or leaving your room unlocked or your luggage out of sight on a train - without worrying it might disappear. Or a bus driver bowing before driving off – and he’s wearing white gloves.
You'd be in South Korea, of course, and what follows are the highlights of my two-week solo trip to Korea, a land of near-unbelievable contrast.
Built on the rubble that was once Seoul, the capital is now a world-class metropolis. Much of South Korea’s success today – Hyundai, LG, Samsung, Daewoo – dates to the aftermath the Korean War, which killed millions and destroyed the country’s infrastructure, leaving it one of the world's poorest countries. It’s hard to conceive of Seoul as a flattened city, from which 90% of the population fled and whose remaining 10% often scavenged for food.
Is it safe to travel to South Korea? If it weren’t for the unpredictability of North Korea-US relations (despite the recent meeting between the countries' two leaders), this would easily qualify as one of the safest destinations for women – anywhere. South Korean solo female travel is not to be feared but on the contrary, to be embraced.
While waiting for changes to trickle down from the Jong-un and Trump summit, it is difficult to forget that South Korea's (until now) sworn enemy, North Korea, lies armed to the teeth just half an hour away and to the South, even more heavily armed, is South Korea and a strong US military presence.
My first brush with the modern miracle that is today's Korea was at Incheon Airport. Huge lines advance smoothly, everyone stepping up in orderly fashion, fitting their soles onto the footprints thoughtfully painted on the floor for you (in case you might be tempted to jump the queue into the arms of the border police).
I arrived solo in Seoul towards the end of March, possibly the best time to visit Korea, during cherry blossom season. I planned a two-week South Korea solo travel itinerary and I’d decided to split it between the capital and the rest of the country. That isn’t as farfetched as it seems: South Korea is the size of England, or of Kentucky, whichever means more to you, so you can see much of it quickly. I had one goal in mind: hunting down cherry blossoms because it's a season I've never experienced.
For some reason, people recommended two or three days for a Seoul solo trip. I disagree with this recommendation; I was in Seoul for six days and felt I had barely scratched its surface. The crowds, traffic and skyscrapers are easily counterbalanced by the high energy, contrast and headiness of the city.
Physically, the city sits in a bowl surrounded by eight mountains and bisected by the Han River. Most walking takes place on hills and my apartment in Seoul required me to walk up a steep hill, climb 50 or so steps, walk up a smaller hill and gasp my way through another three flights of stairs. Calf muscle issues? Visit Seoul. You’ll be Wonder Woman in no time.
I roamed, hopping on and off buses, exploring distant subway stations and discovering neighborhoods.
If you need more of Seoul itinerary, here are just a few of the things to do in Seoul on your own (this list is anything but exhaustive):
Getting around Seoul is easy, but time consuming – it’s not a small town. A rechargeable T-money card, which you can purchase at any convenience store or station, whisks you into subways and buses. Stops are (usually) announced in English and, bless them, subway stations have toilets, cleaner than those of most Western department stores.
The transport networks are extensive and rarely will you be beyond public transit’s reach. Just be forewarned: you’ll be doing a lot of walking. Seoul is built on hills and while there are plenty of subway and bus stops, you may still be blocks away. I walked an average of 12km a day in Seoul, without trying.
| ALSO READ: 6 Things To Know While Traveling to South Korea
Communication is as important as transportation and without speaking a word of Korean, you’ll need all the help you can get. My help came in the form of the Google Translate app, without which I would have been sealed in a bubble throughout my solo trip to Korea. I either spoke into my phone or typed my questions but the Korean output was perfect – at least I got what I needed and no one looked insulted by what appeared on the screen.
Here’s a tip: whenever you leave a place, get someone to write your next destination in Korean on a piece of paper you can hand to a cab driver (taxis are inexpensive, I took many of them) or a person on the street – simple things like “intercity bus station” or “where is the restaurant” …
And no, I didn't see any cherry blossoms in Seoul - I was perhaps a week early, and the weather had suddenly turned cold.
Bukchon: A Hidden Village by Rebecca Biage
One of the unique things to do in Seoul is tucked away in Samcheong-dong neighborhood: Bukchon Hanok Village (hanoks are Korean traditional-style houses). The village dates back more than 600 years, when high-ranking officials of the Joseon Dynasty settled here.
Hanok architecture consists of smoky gray tiled roofs, slightly curving upward at the outer corners. Many of the homes are painted a bright white, decorated by wooden beams or layers of brick along the bottom halves.
Bukchon is located uphill so the legs definitely get a workout, but one that's much better than the gym. There are numerous alleyways to get lost in. (Besides, the added bonus of getting lost is that one usually stumbles upon a good photo opportunity!)
Bukchon Hanok Village can easily be found by taking subway line 3 and getting off at Anguk Station. Look for exit 2 as you make your way out of the station. When you reach the top of the stairs walk straight for several minutes. There are also signs that will direct you towards the village.
In a metropolis filled with neon lights, lofty office buildings and haggard workers, wandering through an area like Bukchon reminds me of simpler days in Korea's past.
Planning an itinerary in South Korea can be a challenge for those of us not familiar with Asian languages. Korean names can sound remarkably similar, and were it not for a common English spelling of place names, I would probably have ended up on the wrong train often.
In addition to six days in Seoul, my itinerary took me to three Korean cities in eight days, as I prefer to see fewer places but see them in greater depth. I kept noticing the mountainous nature of the country and the resulting population density in the lowlands. Korea is crowded!
Heading south from Seoul on the bullet train to the coastal city of Busan, highrises appeared to leap out of the fog, there one minute, gone the next. The train ride, by the way, is far smoother than those of its European counterparts. It’s also better protected, with safety barriers along the route: worse view, but better security.
Busan is South Korea’s second largest city, stunning in its beachside setting and the subject of glorious photographs. I was there in the rain, which in no way altered my enjoyment. I just visited it differently: I walked in the rain (and searched in vain for cherry blossoms). I visited the world’s largest department store, Shinsegae Centum City, and spent the afternoon lazing in Spa Land: 22 spring-fed pools of different temperatures and 13 types of sauna. I sampled them all – naked, as one does in Korea (but beware - the sign says no tattoos allowed!)
Next stop, the historical city of Gyeongju, also known as the ‘museum without walls’ and famous for its unusual tumuli, or tombs shaped like grass mounds. These are disconcertingly spread throughout town, with streets winding around them. I enjoy temples and spent time at the fabulous Bulguksa, climbing its many stairs. One evening I walked to nearby Anapji Pond. I’d heard it was ‘pretty’ but nothing prepared me for the slow settling of dusk mirrored against the bright pink of the spring cherry blossoms - yes, bountiful blossoms at last. Clearly this was a famous sight, as romantic couples and entire families jostled one another for selfies against the flickering lights. (Here's a three-day Gyeongju itinerary if you'd like to spend more time.)
My final stop was the city of Jeonju, a UNESCO gastronomic city so of course I spent several days there, ‘sampling’. Its centerpiece is a traditional hanok village but unlike Bukchon, where people still live, Jeonju’s have become guest houses and restaurants. I enjoyed staying in one – the room was smaller than my closet at home and I slept on a mat on the heated floor. Falling asleep was wretchedly painful (I found beds generally uncomfortable everywhere) BUT I woke up more refreshed than ever after the mat episodes. I have no idea what magic occurs down on that floor, but it works.
Jeonju’s food kept its promises except for a single plate of overly doughy fried squid. As for the rest, I leapt from dumpling to dumpling, noodle soup to noodle soup and skewer to skewer. Time flew.
There's such variety in the street food that after two weeks of visiting South Korea, I still hadn't tested everything (though I did try!
Walking the streets of Myeongdong Market was an education in Korean street food.
Koreans love sugar, which manages to find its way into everything, including unusual dishes like pasta or egg salad.
Cheese, too, is hugely popular and goes on everything from lobster tails to…
Much as I love street food, I also enjoyed sit-down meals. One of my favorites was bulgogi, a pork hot-plate with hot spice and vegetables – and a bit of sweetness. Seafood is plentiful, as you'd expect in a country bordered on three sides by water. Gwangjang Market in Seoul is known for its silk goods and vintage clothes during the day, but in the evening it turns into seafood city, with raucus communal tables filled with laughter and conviviality.
I was relieved to discover coffee is a local addiction with a café on every street corner. I was less relieved to get the bill: between $4-$11 for a cappuccino, depending on whether I was desperate for that extra espresso shot or not.
Korea lacks a tipping culture and you’re often asked to pay beforehand, which can be disconcerting when you sit down for a meal and the bill comes before the food. It also means you don’t have to chase the miraculously disappearing staff for your bill after you’ve eaten.
Understanding any aspect of Korean culture was sadly a superficial exercise: I don’t speak the language, and I had no local Korean friends to put things into context for me. Still, there was plenty to observe and some obvious traits that required little translation or explanation:
If there’s one cultural quirk that really turned my head it’s the addiction to anything ‘cute’. Dogs are dressed in frills, large stuffed toys sit on serious bank or legal desks, couples wear matching shoes or T-shirts, and pink is greatly in favor, all part of a new and extremely lucrative ‘Kidult’ culture. One of the top things to do in South Korea seems to be going to a cat café...
Women in South Korea dress conservatively on top, with not a bit of cleavage to be seen. That said, you can wear the shortest micro mini-skirt and no one will bat an eyelash.
City dwellers sport an urban look, like that of any city but perhaps fluffier and frillier than in Europe or North America. More girly.
Designer clothes are common, as you might expect in a wealthy country that values appearance. Watching a group of mature Koreans head out for a Sunday of hiking is an exercise in logo-spotting.
To give you an idea of the country’s wealth, South Korea places #18 on the Human Development Index for 2016 – ahead of France, Belgium and Finland. It’s come a long way from its deep poverty just six decades ago.
The country is changing rapidly but is intertwined with its traditions. Women, for example, have more rights than they could have imagined a generation ago yet respect for families, especially older male relatives, still governs many interactions. While traditions are strong, Korea is more modern every day - its connectivity and recycling policies could put many countries to shame.
Yet the one constant that permeates Korean life is history. Old people still talk with anger about the Japanese occupation a century ago, yet few pay much attention to the nasty words bandied about between North Korea and the US, even though Seoul is right in the line of fire.
They've heard it all before.
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In Korea, women can wear the shortest of skirts but showing shoulders or cleavage is a big no-no.
Contributed by Marie of Be Marie Korea